Category Archives: Horse Advice

Important advice that can be applied across the equestrian sector, providing expert help and guidance on a selection of topics.

Horse Advice

How can I stop my horse pulling? …. 3 steps to go!

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Does your horse get offended when you pull on the reins to stop? Does he pin his ears, shake his head, and keep going? Have you ever asked “how can I stop my horse pulling?”

Maybe he’s trying to tell you something: stop pulling on the reins! 🙂

There is a way to get your horse to stop without pulling on the reins.

but first, you both have to be “in sync” together, working in tandem instead of against each other.

If you haven’t done this before, it may take a few tries to convince your horse that you want to work with him. Horses that are regularly pulled on seem to accept that the pressure has to be there before they should respond. They might learn to lean on the bit, pulling against you while you pull backward, hoping for the legs to stop.

Some horses are generous and eventually slow their feet, stop/starting until finally, all four legs come to a halt. Other horses might not be quite as forgiving and just keep going until you have to put more and more pressure on the mouth. Eventually, one of you wins but it’s never pretty!

We all dream of finding the halt that looks like we are in complete harmony with our horse. You know – the one that feels like the horse’s legs are your legs, and your mind is so coordinated with the horse that it looks like you are reading each other’s thoughts.

It does happen. The secret: ride from your seat.

Setup for a Correct Halt

1. Contact

Prepare several strides ahead of the intended location. Your reins should be a good length – not too long and not too short. There should be a steady enough contact on the bit to be able to communicate very subtle changes of pressure.

2. Begin a series of half-halts.

The half-halts start at the seat. In rhythm with the horse’s movement, resist with your lower back. Be sure to resist in rhythm. In other words, your lower back and seat will feel something like this: resist… flow… resist… flow… resist… flow.

2a. Use your legs.

During each flow moment, squeeze lightly with your calves. This helps the horse engage his hind end deeper underneath the body in preparation with the halt.

2b. Use the hands.

During each resist moment, squeeze the reins with your hands. You might squeeze both reins or just one rein (the outside rein being the usual rein) but in any case, do your best to use the hands after the leg aids. The rein pressure should occur in tandem with the resisting seat aid.

3.When you are ready for the halt, simply stop your seat.

Maintain contact with your legs and reins, but stop the activity. Don’t keep pulling on the reins.

If the horse is truly with you, his legs will stop lightly and in balance.

Horses that have been trained to respond to the half-halt will sigh in relief when you lighten up on your aids and use your seat in the halt. You might be surprised at how easily the legs will stop if you can improve your timing and releases.

Horses that have always been pulled on might not respond at all. They might be expecting to be hauled backward, thrown to the forehand, and dragged to a stop. If this is the case, be patient. If you haven’t done this before, it may take a few tries to convince your horse that you want to work with him.

You might have to bridge the learning gap by applying the half-halts several times, stopping your seat and then pulling to stop. In the end though, the pull should disappear completely from your vocabulary (exception: in an emergency stop).

Regardless of how you get there, the goal is to stop all four legs in a light, balanced manner that allows the horse to use his hind end when he takes that last step. Your horse might walk a few strides and then halt.

If you feel your horse’s front end lighten and into the halt, you know you are on the right track. If you discover the four legs stopped square and parallel to each other, pet and gush over him, and call it a day!

Sound talking : horse listening.

Perhaps you would benefit from some lessons, someone on the ground to help you keep on track.  Horse Scout has a great list of professional trainers, check them out here – they should be able to help you stop your horse from pulling.

Horse Advice

Looking to learn? – 8 Tips to help point you in the right direction and find the right instructor for you

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Lets help you find your perfect match in the arena. If you are thinking that you want to learn to ride or to improve your techniques then you need an instructor who will work well with you and you need to really think about the what, the how and the when?

  1. If you are a novice then opt for a venue which offers joint classes for different age groups, a range of riding instructors, and different school master horses.
  2. Trainers are usually the best option if you want to learn a specific style of riding, develop your competitive ability, or work with both you and your horse. Consider carefully what you want to learn – classical riding, show jumping, natural horsemanship riding, dressage or even cross country riding.
  3. Do you want regular lessons, or an intensive course?
  4. Are you willing to travel with your horse weekly or less often?
  5. Find a lecture or demonstration at a local event to see exactly what is possible – many large riding schools and Equestrian Centres have these throughout the year so you can see what is achievable and whether the method is really what you want to learn.
  6. Research online what other riders have found helped.
  7. If your horse lacks confidence or has behavioural problems, attending a course that shows you how to use natural horsemanship may give you the skills to teach your horse yourself.
  8. Does your horse have problems with certain dressage movements – try a lesson on a school master first to get the feel of how a movement feels.

Just remember that one size doesn’t fit all. Horse Scout has some top professional trainers who are expert in their fields.  Click here to find a perfect match for you and your horse.

Horse Advice

Are you looking for a Professional Groom?

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Professional Groom with 4 years experience in Bethany Phillips from Braintree, is looking for a live in position. She has a car and holds a valid driving licence. She is available from May 1st 2015.

She lists her areas of expertise as :

  •  Problem horses / re-breaking
  • Competition riding – Unaffiliated
  • Turnout to a high standard
  • Riding, schooling and training
  • Sole charge / Head girl position
  • Sales preparation
  • Work with children
  • Dealing with clients and owners

If you are looking for a competent member of staff then contact Bethany with your requirements.

Horse Scout also has a number of work riders and grooms looking for placements. Click here for further information.

Horse Advice

10 top tips to help you remember that your horse is reactive – Not Toxic!

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When its all going wrong: Have you ever wondered why your horse always does what you ask him?

Did you realise that is was you that asked him to stay standing on you toe?

Did you realise that you asked him to skip to the right as you approached the fence?

When something like this happens with a horse, try going back and reviewing what you actually told him. You’ll usually find the answer there.

The problem is that we often don’t have the knowledge or the skills to ask for what we want. We ask for something which the horse interprets as Behaviour A. We thought we were asking for Behaviour B. We keep on asking for B which the horse interprets as a request for Behaviour A. It keeps escalating. The horse is “bad.” Actually, the horse is trying to comply, but rather than his not listening to us, we’re not listening to him.

“My horse won’t do what I want—here comes the fatal saying—so …HE IS BEING BAD.”

As soon as I add that cop out conclusion that the reason my horse won’t do what I want is “because he is being bad,” I give myself “permission” to punish him for that “bad” behavior, and the downward spiral into a fight has begun.

“BAD” is a value laden word, which implies malign motive on the part of the horse. Even though we know that a horse is reactive we still insist that he is proactively challenging us. A good trainer almost never says or thinks, “My horse is being bad.” She may well say, “My horse won’t do what I want.” That’s a frequent fact. But then the GOOD trainer will start hunting for the REAL reason.

She might say, “My horse won’t do what I want BECAUSE…” one or several of these:

  1. He doesn’t understand the aids I just applied.
  2. He’s not calm enough yet in his work to handle this request.
  3. My warm up was too short—he’s still “high”.
  4. I`m asking him the wrong way, as in, I don’t know how to ask this question.
  5. The horse isn’t physically strong enough yet to comply with what I asked.
  6. Something hurts him, saddle fit, bit, hocks, stifles, back, something is making him uncomfortable.
  7. The atmosphere here is too electric for him to handle.
  8. Oops, I am in a bad mood, and I asked too roughly.
  9. I as a rider am not yet physically elastic and quiet enough in my riding to not upset him.
  10. …….or one of the other 101 other real reasons.

 

Don’t be demoralized, we all need help from the ground, talk to your trainer or find someone who can help you change your approach.

Horse Advice

Spring Cleaning your stable – Is it 10 or 11 Top Tips from Horse Scout today?

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Now the weather is getting better (apart from a few apocalyptic storms, of course!) it’s nearly time for the annual stable clean. Every stable needs a deep clean once a year, we all dread it but here are some tips and helpful pointers to make it that little bit less traumatic and more efficient!

It’s all in the preparation so here are Horse Scouts’ top tips and advice:

On a good warm, sunny day with no chance of rain follow our 11 tips (well, 10 really, the last one isn’t so much of a tip, it’s an order!)

1) First of all, tie those locks back into a bun or cover your hair (Silly shower caps are a great way to cover your hair – and look ridiculous – even if you do look like a cabbage patch kid), get yourself a pair of goggles and some old scruffs, the ones you don’t mind throwing away afterwards…

2) Get your tools ready before you start (and someone to help if possible to hold ladders, lift matting etc.) Here are some ideas of the kind of things you’ll need: ladders, barrows, good brooms, buckets, disinfectant, hose or pressure waster (pressure washers are a god-send, perhaps try to borrow one if you can!)

3) Take everything out of the stable before you start.  Don’t be tempted to leave your bedding in the stable otherwise you’ll only be worried about dust getting in it.

4) Give roof areas and trusses a good sweep or, even a hoover, to remove dust and cobwebs (I always empty afterwards; in case the spiders climb back out of the tube!)

5) Clean and check all light fittings and windows, we recommend some white vinegar to clean the windows, less chemicals for the horse and much cheaper and leaves your windows spotless! Or even better go chemical free an duse damp newspaper followed by a dry piece.

6) Clean out  buckets and/or water feeder thoroughly, remember to scrub. “Milton” is a good chemical to clean things your horse will eat/drink out of, it’s used for infants and is less smelly than bleach and less harmful. Another great one is the ecover range, no harsh chemicals and smells…

7) Disinfect the floor and hose down.  This can be done with a dedicated disinfectant or simply a mixture of water and bleach.  Allow plenty of time for your stable to dry after you’ve hosed it down and make sure it’s thoroughly rinsed, horses don’t like the smell of bleach 🙂

8) The grimmest part of the clean, are you ready?!:  Put a peg on your nose, scrub the rubber matting clean and hose down the underside whilst it’s out of the stable side … Yuk! (Or pay your little brother or sister £5 to do it for you!) You’re welcome!

9) Allow it to dry thoroughly – we mean really thoroughly!

10) Put everything back, only if you’re sure it’s truly clean, ie that there’s no smell of ammonia

11) Finally have a cup of tea and a bar of chocolate, check the Horse Scout Twitter Page and dream about the months of great summer riding ahead!

 

 

Horse Advice

Warning Signs – What is equine atypical myopathy?

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Ever heard of EAM?  I hadn’t until I was alerted to it on social media this week as there’s been lots of discussion about it.  Want to know more about this fatal equine disease, then read what I’ve found out about it so far…

What is it?

Equine Atypical Myopathy, or EAM as it is more commonly known, is a fast and frequently fatal condition, affecting grazing horses mostly in the Spring and/or Autumn.  A staggering 80+% of cases are fatal in as little as 11 hours from onset. It occurs in fields, affecting the horse’s muscles in a similar way to Azetoria (tying up).

The Cause

Hypoglycin A, is the toxin that is believed to be responsible for this disease.  It’s present in the seeds of some Acers such as Acer pseudoplatanus, which to you and me is simply known as the Maple tree or Sycamore tree.

Risk Season

The clinical signs seem to appear after the occurrence of specific climatic conditions.  The peak seasons when these conditions are most prevalent are Autumn and Spring when rain, showers and wind blow the Acer and Sycamore seeds or seedlings on to the fields.

Areas at Risk

Any fields with Sycamore or Maple trees on or near them present a risk to equines.  The wind can blow the seeds a surprisingly long way.  To avoid the risk of any horses or ponies contracting EAM, it’s recommended that the seeds are removed in the autumn and also to look out for and remove seedlings in the Spring.

Young horses and ponies that are out at grass 24/7 and not in work are the most commonly affected.  Those not immunized, rugged, fed supplementary feed or provided with shelter are also at greater risk.

Warning Signs

Warning signs could be one or more of the following:

  • Lethargy, reluctance or inability to move
  • Head held low, an almost laminitic type stance (if still standing); it can look similar to colic but the gut sounds often normal
  • Reduction in appetite but will still eat and pass urine and/or droppings
  • tense hindquarters, possibly with some trembling, shoulders the same;  the trembling seems to come in waves
  • Red nostrils
  • Vocal
  • Depressed
  • Dark Urine
  • Increased respiratory rate.

IF YOU SUSPECT ATYPICAL MYOPATHY, CALL YOUR VET IMMEDIATELY.

Thanks to Kit Haughton for her great tips on Equus

Horse Advice

Cool canter? – Warming up and early canter work.

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Make sure you can see the light – a cool canter with the Christop Hess clinic tip

The classical canter seat in dressage and when schooling is to site into the horse with hips aligned to the hips of the horse and the shoulders to the horses shoulders, thus advancing the stride with a asymmetric contact into the saddle allowing for the stabalising inside leg under tension and in contact with the horse in the girth area and the holding outside leg keeping bend and holding the quarters on line.  This is the way to ride a canter when schooling and when in a dressage arena….. but! In order to generate the lift and ease of a rhythmic canter which is full of energy and is light and forward moving the horse has to be able to engage fully through its back a horse must have a strong back and be elastic in its stride.

When warming up and when teaching a horse to canter a light or two point seat allows the horse to rise in the back and ‘find his rider’. Christoph Hess, Germany’s FEI dressage and eventing judge explains, at a recent clinic, that the advantages are important and every horse can benefit from riding the canter this way.

This way of riding a canter creates an appearance of somewhat bouncy canter seat but it should never ever be heavy on the horse’s back (rider’s seat either just about brushes the saddle in the down phase or lifts again before coming in contact with the saddle. All movement of the horse goes through rider’s knees and hips. This way of riding in half seat is sometimes referred to as an “incorrect rising canter” but whatever we call it, it really builds feel, stability, upper body independence and arms suppleness. It also helps the rider with timing of the leg aids and with supporting each canter stride as and when necessary.  This approach, additionally, increases reaction time when jumping, is great for very hot horses and helps those riders who tend to fold over the jumps excessively.

Many novice and intermediate riders have trouble with riding the actual canter stride of their horse without stiffness. If they feel nervous they might move own body in “shorter” strides or “longer” strides, they might worry about being left behind or bounced upwards, they might grip through their thighs and knees and lose their stirrups, they might lock through their hip joints and “drive” the canter by rubbing their seat down into the saddle. This encourages the horse to dip his back away from the pressure and therefore tensing the very muscles that needs to be relaxed and supple for the movement to be most effortless and pleasant to both sit to and to watch.

Riders with a tendancy to grip with their knees in canter or sitting trot  will struggle to improve the quality of their horses’ canter will also find both of these exercises to have unlocking effect on their pelvis and knees and stabilising effect on their hands. In turn, this will help with expression and freedom of the horse’s movement.

Having a set of eyes on the ground will really help you with your canter work.  Horse Scout has a fabulous listing for professional trainers and working with someone else who has your interests at heart will change your attitude to cantering with your horse and improve your riding relationship with him.

Horse Advice

Top Tips for a well structured Warm Up routine (part three)

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Have you been reading my blogs on warming up.  By now you are well on the way to having a warmed up horse and now you’re warm, loose and breathing more heavily – At least your horse is!

Your horse is loose and warm and flexible and now you want to engage his brain and for him to engage his muscles. The next stage is to focus on getting every single joint in your horse’s body moving. Pole work is a great way to do this – by getting him to lift his legs up and over the poles, you’re stimulating and asking for movement in all of his joints. Walking over poles on the ground will raise his forehand and also helps to tone his thoracic sling muscles, these are between his front legs and play an important role in supporting his forehand between his front legs. As they contract, they lift and lighten they loosen the underside of the neck. Walking your horse over poles also helps to strengthen his core.

Core stability provides the strength and co-ordination to help with his control, balance, posture and carrying the weight of his rider. It can also improve self-carriage, enhance performance and reduce the risk of injury. The core muscles are vital in maintaining correct posture of his back.

Riding poles and bringing tone into his muscles with half-halts, will help with the engagement of his hind-quarters, encouraging him to collect and push from behind, hill work and riding over poles all help to tone and strengthen his core.

Finally, now your horse’s muscle and joints are warmed up, it’s time to make the transition from that long and low frame to the position you want him in for your working session or test. You need to make sure he’s switched on, in front of your aids, with plenty of activity and ready to work.

If you are having a lesson with your trainer or would like to arrange one with one of Horse Scouts listed trainers please build in time to get to this stage before your lesson starts if you can.  If you have a half hour session with your trainer and your horse is ready to start the hard work at the beginning of a session you can concentrate on working on particular problem areas.  Similarly, ensure that when your lesson is finished you can take the time to cool your horse down for 10 minutes in a low outline to allow him to stretch his muscles and reduce the lactic acid build up before returning to his stable and being sedentary.

In Germany we would often go for a hack down to the lake after a training session and stand in the stream which would cool the horses down too. That was particularly nice but a quiet hack around the school will suffice if you cannot go out.

It is a good thing to note that if your horse starts to fidget or tire during your workout, it’s important to return to a forward and down neck outline to give him a break. It is really important not to skimp on your warm-up! Following a plan similar to the one here will help your horse to perform at his best and lower the risk of injury.

 

 

Horse Advice

Feeling Good?- how to develop that all important eureka factor -“Feel”

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Feeling Good?- how to develop that all important eureka factor.

Training with ‘Feel’

‘Feel’ is something that cannot be explained easily because each rider’s perception is likely to differ from another’s understanding of that feeling. For that reason, a training approach and exercises that teach riders the ‘feel’ for balance and thoroughness should be part of a trainers routine. When using this ‘feel,’ the rider finds that the movements become less complicated and that the horses are able to stay relaxed even at the highest level of competition.

The thing is though it’s a bit like the chicken and an egg situation….until you can ride with some mastery you cannot really understand “feel” and until you can “feel” you cannot ride with any real mastery! The good thing is that, as you start learning and getting better, you do occasionally have those inspirational moments when you feel “feel”

Eureka moments are easiest, at the start, on simple movements. On a circle for instance. As you concentrate on looking forward, with your shoulders turned slightly in the direction you are going, your inside leg is able to support and push the horse into an outside rein contact and, one you feel the horse is balanced, you can (slowly) release your inside rein towards the horses mouth. In a dressage test this is termed give and take. On a circle when you are training and the horse stays well balanced and does not change its rhythm and continues on the circle….you have a eureka moment! It is one of the most thrilling things ever. Much better than skiing down a mountain (!).

Share your eureka moments and find yourself a trainer in your area. It is so much easier if you have someone on the ground who can help you find that all important “feel”. Horse Scout would love to hear about your first eureka moments.

 

Horse Advice

Ever Wondered Why? – Words about Warming UP

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Have you ever thought about how you move after you have been sitting still for a long time. (hopefully reading all the interesting tips on this Horse Scout Bog!) Everything is just a little bit stiff and can be a little bit cold. (well certainly this is true at my age); but that aside any muscles which have been inactive are in a state of stasis and need waking up before you ask them questions.

Our horses are the same and by adding 20 minutes to your work time by warming your horse up effectively will reap its rewards in training progress and avoidance of injury.  Warm downs should also become an integral part of your routine too.

To understand why you need to warm your horse up before asking him to work in an outline or jump is simple.  Test out why yourself.  Put on some suitable footware and open your front door and start running (be aware of traffic and stay safe).  Result?

Yes you can run a fair way; and then what happens? Running is good for you but don’t approach your own fitness this way.  You will get out of breath first, then you will feel tired. If you continue to run you will get a build up of lactic acid in your muscles and they will cramp of become overly tired.  If you don’t stretch afterwards you will have sore stiff muscles within a couple of hours.

This is exactly what happens to your horse.

If you need help with creating a suitable routine then contact one of Horse Scouts trainers and arrange for some lessons.

However, there are some things you can do from the ground and Gillian Higgins, who is a sports and remedial therapist, BHS Senior Coach, anatomist, and founder of Horses Inside Out, has some brilliant graphics on her website using her painted horses to demonstrate exactly how effective a warm up routine is.

She says  “Your warm-up is so important for a number of different reasons,”. “First and foremost are the physiological reasons. Warming up your horse’s skeleton, joints and muscles is crucial to ensure he avoids injury and can perform to the best of his ability. Then, secondly are the behavioural and

psychological elements that get your horse switched on and listening to your aids. A good warm-up programme will help to tackle all of the above.”

To get your horse properly warmed up follow Gillian’s six step essential warm-up plan, covering how to:

1. Start with groundwork

2. Loosen him up

3. Get his blood flowing

4. Move his joints

5. Work his core

6. Get him listening

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