Tag Archives: advice

Buying A Horse

10 helpful hints when buying or selling horses

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Horse Scout has a great website for buyers and sellers alike. The sales and professional pages are full of information and clear to read.  This makes it so much easier for both buyers and sellers. Having all relevant information sorted into categories make it easy to make informed choices when looking at the horses form or potential.  Good photographs make a difference to a viewers initial decision and Horse Scout offers both stills and video footage.

10 Helpful Hints when Buying or Selling Horses

1. As a seller write your advert carefully and be accurate in your description, don’t advertise your horse 100% in traffic if you have only ever ridden him down quiet country lanes. Both Sellers and Buyers should keep a copy of the advert which can be useful if there is a dispute in the future.

  1. If you are having the horse vetted which is always recommended, do not use the regular vet of the seller. You must instruct an independent vet and pay for the vet direct.
  2. If it is important that the horse is good to load, ask to see him load. If you ask the seller to confirm that the horse is vice free get the seller to warrant that the horse is vice free by writing it down. As a Seller, if you have told the Buyer that the horse is green and has never been ridden out alone before, for example, write this down and ask the buyer to sign it acknowledging the fact.
  3. Don’t buy a horse without its passport.
  4. Be realistic about your abilities – don’t over horse yourself.
  5. If you discover a problem with your horse inform the seller immediately and keep copies or notes of all correspondence.
  6. When you go to try or look at a horse to buy always take an experienced person with you if you are a novice.
  7. If the Seller is selling on behalf of someone else, if appropriate contact the Owner direct. Whenever looking at a horse ask lots of questions about vices, what it has done, its breeding, competition record, laminitis, sweet itch, lameness etc.
  8. Cut your losses – If all has gone wrong and you end up with an unsuitable horse, come to terms with the fact and don’t always insist on litigation which can be expensive, consider selling it to a more suitable home. As a Seller, if a horse proves to be unsuitable for a Buyer consider taking the horse back and finding an alternative buyer, if the horse is genuine this shouldn’t be a problem.
  9. Always have a written contract, with details of the buyer, seller, price and warranties (if any) given signed by both parties.
Novice Rider

In Praise of the Talented Amateur Rider

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If Professional riders are the backbone of the sports horse industry then Talented Amateur Riders are the muscle.

In every sector of the British Equine Industry there are talented amateur riders producing and competing against the professional riders who make their living in their industry. Horse and Hound have recently featured an array of well known and very talented amateur riders who hold down a job and still find time to work their horses.  You have to admire this army of dedicated riders.  Early morning and late nights (not that professional trainers don’t of course) Weekends are dedicated to lessons or competing and evenings reserved for clinics and schooling sessions, and midnight is that special hour for cleaning tack!…possibly after an evening out with friends, who knows.

Some Amateurs concentrate on producing talented horses for the professional market, like Becky Marsden who trained OBOS Columbus “Obie” who she sold as an eight year old to Mark Tod who is delighted with him. Becky says, of her choice in horses to buy to bring on that “They have to be sensible in their heads” because she will often be riding alone. Caroline Brdge also produces horses for the profesional market like Don George, but also sells to other amateurs who want to compete seriously and don’t necessarily have time to bring a horse up to the level at which they want to be competing.

Vicky Brake, who produced horses such as mary Kings horse Imperial cavalier says “I’ve learned over the years that’s cautious everytime it moves up a level is likely to be found out, so you shouldn’t waste time trying to make it into something it isn’t”

For Darren mattia who produces dressage horses; Dimaggio and Woodland Wesuvio were started by him, hacking is key to starting his youngsters off.  He says that being out on the lanes and tracks keeps their minds occupied and so he is able to take advantage of their energy to “ride them forward”

For the grassroots rider looking for Horses for Sale; David Brooms tips on buying a horse really stand out for me.  Reading Forums where the topics are being discussed by the grassroots community in any riding discipline the one thing that comes up again and again is temperament.  When looing for a horse which is going to meet your needs as an amateur rider then aside from the obvious good leg at each corner, soundness, and ability come temperament.

Make those few precious hours you have with your horse the best they can be and buy a horse with the nicest temperament.

For me temperament and talent over looks any day.

Most well made horses with the right temperament and training will, given time reach to say, medium advanced in Dressage, Novice or even intermediate in Eventing, 110/120m in showjumping. Other disciplines like showing or endurance will need the confirmation of an angel to compete successfully, but for other disciplines the adage handsome is as handsome does is just so true.

If you are thinking of buying a horse which has been produced by an amateur look at its competition record, this will give an indication of breaks in its training (and you can ask why) and how consistent it has been in its placings and progress through the levels.

Horse Scout has some lovely horses for sale which have been produced by both professionals and some very talented amateur riders.  Horse Scout has made it easy to see, at a glance, the horses competition level, and if applicable, how many points it has accrued.  Five star listings will have information and photos and videos too. You can also check out the producers profile page. In fact Horse Scout offers a really good overview helping you make an informed choice before even picking up the telephone.  Good Luck in you search.

Horse Advice

6 wise words – The science behind the need to warm up your horse before asking him to work

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The science behind the need to warm up your horse (and yourself) properly.

Understanding how a horses performance can be adversely affected by a build up of lactic acid will help a rider adjust his schooling techniques to minimize the effect this has on performance.

The Horse and Hound ran a very interesting article this week on the research which has shown how if a horse was worked more on one rein than the other there was shown to be a definite increase in lactic acid the muscles on the side which had not been as well warmed up which led to increased incidences of injury among the 70 horses taking part in the trial. Correct and even warm up techniques helped to control the acid build up. The study also showed that lactic buildup was also adverse horses who were less able to perform at an anaerobic level, i.e. where less fit and/or strong.

Lactic acid is released into the muscles when they have used up their normal energy stores but still have intense energy needs. Small amounts of lactic acid operate as a temporary energy source, thus helping you avoid fatigue during a workout. However, a build up of lactic acid during a workout can create burning sensations in the muscles that can slow down or halt athletic activity. For this reason, it may be desirable to reduce lactic acid build up in the muscles when training and as far as possible out in the competitive arena.

Understand that lactic acid does not cause muscle soreness after a workout. Lactic acid is often wrongly accused of being responsible for the post-workout muscle soreness which can affect performance up to 1 to 3 days after a hard workout. However, new research shows that lactic acid (which operates as a temporary fuel source during intense physical activity) washes out of the system within an hour of the end of a workout, so it cannot be responsible for the pain felt days later.

The latest theory suggests that this muscle pain — also known as delayed onset muscle soreness or DOMS — is the result of damage to the muscle cells during intense exercise. This causes inflammation, swelling and tenderness as the muscles repair themselves.

In order to reduce muscle soreness after a workout, it is necessary to do a proper warm up before exercising. This wakes up the muscles and prepares them for physical activity. It is also important to avoid pushing your horse past its physical limits and to build up your training goals gradually.

In a nutshell

To help prevent lactic build up and improve performance

  1. Make sure your horse is well hydrated
  2. Warm up thoroughly
  3. Build on strength and stamina but do it incrementally
  4. If your horse starts to fidget or show signs of tiredness allow some down time and let him stretch down and forwards
  5. Warm down well after exercise
  6. If possible allow your horse downtime either in a field or wandering around the school

Professional riders and teachers will help you understand the need to effective controls and help you devise strategies to improve you horses way of going by using a good warm up and warm down routine.

Horse, whatever their discipline, be it hacking, hunting, eventing, showjumping dressage or showing will all be affected by a build up of lactic acid so make sure you are aware of this and take it into account when exercising or schooling your horse by warming up and warming down well.

If you are looking for a livery yard where you can warm down by hacking out be sure to check out our Yard Listing on Horse Scout.  You can sort yards that have particular facilities by using the search box, top right of your screen.

 

 

Horse Riding Tips

Ways of Going – 8 Top Tips for the Riding Horse in the Show Ring

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Insider talk on top judges tips for what she wants to see in a riding horse and the way it goes, how it looks and most importantly (especially for the judge) how it rides.

  1. When watching the ‘go round’ judges look for a horse which is walking with a long and easy stride, covering the ground well, swinging its shoulder freely and tracking up well. They want to see a longer rein walk, not a horse pulled in with its head scrunched up to its chest. The horse should be swinging its head slightly in time to the walk and have its head in front of the perpendicular, ears pricked and a happy, calm look.
  2. At the trot they look again for a long swinging stride, the tail carried easily and swinging from side to side – the sign of a relaxed, swinging, working back – and a comfortable easy head carriage, with the bit held quietly in a wet mouth, no open mouths or grinding teeth – a particular hate. The head should be straight and in line with the direction, not tilted or crooked. They look especially for a steady rhythm or cadence, showing that the horse is working from behind and is carrying itself – not having its nose pulled in by the reins and kicked along all the time.
  3. At canter it’s much the same. Judges look for a smooth slowish, steady canter which gives the impression the rider is totally at ease and the pair could swing along all day in superb comfort.
  4. When gallop is shown ideally the horse only needs to show some definite lengthening of the stride and lowering along the long side of the ring, sliding into an easy gallop and out without fuss. Sadly this is not often seen; quite often they rush about with fast short strides. Galloping is not about racing or jumping off the corner as in a gymkhana, but showing lowering and lengthening – (this used to be called ventre-a-terre) in just half a dozen strides and a calm return to slower paces.
  5. Riding horses are not usually required to do shows but they can be and when this is done Judges prefer to see a simple, short show well done, rather than complicated manoeuvres which fail miserably. However, a Riding Horse should be able to rein back easily and happily, change leg at canter in a straight line and slide on to extend and back without fighting.
  6. The purpose of a Riding Horse is to take one riding for pleasure and therefore it is expected to carry a rider with very light and easy aids and to be soft and gentle on the hand. Judges do not want a horse that is jumping out of its skin, but alternatively they really don’t want something that needs pushing round the ring – imaging having to ride twenty all needing shovelling along, exhausting!!
  7. Many consider that the most important thing is the quality of its movement, a young green horse can give an infinitely better ride than an old well schooled, beautifully mannered but stiff and stilted moving horse, if its paces are on another plane, if it moves across the ring on a well oiled easy stride, long and flowing and soft off the ground. A horse must be supple and easy round its corners, bending whichever way it’s going. Very often horses are marked down because they lie heavily on one rein and are stiff on one side. This is usually the fault of poor training and results in a most unsatisfactory ride.
  8. No-one likes riding horses that spook and jump about so they must be relaxed and able to cope with the (sometimes ridiculous) distractions that surround the rings at today’s horse shows. When judges come to sit on the horse they need to feel their legs taken up by its sides, and to have a good length of rein in front of them, not just neck, but shoulder as well, and to feel, literally that they are in the middle of a comfortable well fitting “seat”.

If you are looking for a horse to do well as a riding horse in the show ring take a look at the Horse Scout Horses for Sale pages.  There are some fabulous prospect there.

Horse Advice

Looking at loosening up muscles, joints and your horses mind.

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Looking at loosening up muscles, joints and your horses mind.

When you have mounted your horse allow him to walk off on a soft low rein with a loose contact and encourage him to stretch forward and long in his neck. This stretches the ‘nuchal ligament’ which runs from his pole to his withers and in turn pulls on the ligaments which run along the top of the vertebrae and gives him time to get used to your weight.  When you feel he has developed a loose and flexible walk and is listening to you then move into trot keeping the contact soft and low and start in rising trot on large figures of eight in a slow steady trot. This will help him relax and adjust his stance to easily take your weight. Also by riding your horse in this way also it allows for more swing through his back, which is a positive movement to promote.

It’s important to start and finish your ridden session with your horse in a long and low contact to let him use his nuchal and supraspinous ligaments to support his back, particularly as he’s warming up or when he’s tired.

Once your horse is loosened up and moving freely in the large movements you can start to increase his temperature and circulation by asking him to move into canter this will increase his cardio and breathing rates and oxygenate the muscles ready to start working. It also exercises the core muscles which have to extend and contract more in the canter than they do in the trot.

Once you feel he is breathing well and has warmed up then allow him to have a breather and walk for a while. During this walking period you can concentrate on flexibility. Just like people horses will loose flexibility over time unless they are given routine exercises which help them use their joints to the full.

Lateral work for a horse encourages a full range of movement in upper joints, rather like us lifting our arms above our heads to stretch. Depending on what level your horse is training at you can use small circles of lateral work such as leg-yield, shoulder-in and travers. Start any lateral exercises in walk at first as it requires the greatest amount of joint movement because there’s no moment of suspension.

Walking is the horses most flexible pace for his spine.  In walk he is able to more easily rotate and flex and this helps bring his hind legs in to step up and under him. All of these exercises will help to promote and maintain your horse’s skeletal health. Flexing him to the left and right will help the muscles on either side of his spine and poll to flex, and any lateral and circle work will strengthen and stretch these muscle chains further.

Work with an experienced trainer to get the best from your horse.  Horse Scout has a list of professional trainers and coaches one of whom is bound to be in your area

Horse Riding Tips

Ten Top Tips for Picking a Pony

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Top Tips for Picking a Pony

This is your child and as every parent knows we all want to make our child’s first experience on a pony a happy one.  It is so important to build confidence into these first few years.  There is time enough for bombing about and simply having fun, falling off and being put back on are all part of the learning process but if your child is scared then you wont be buying a second pony let alone be trailing her around to shows and buying her her first competition pony in the future.

  1. When you are looking for a pony for sale the first top tip would be DON’T TAKE YOUR CHILD WITH YOU.  Otherwise in no time at all the heart will be ruling the head and you may have made an awful mistake.
  2. Make a short list of possibilities and then go and visit them, preferably with someone who is very experienced and able to judge the suitability of a pony for your child, before taking your child to see the very best of your short list.
  3. The pony must be 100% quiet at all times, safe from the ground and when being ridden.
  4. Make sure you see the pony being led by a child to asses the relationship.
  5. Watch a child riding on and off the lead rein.
  6. If possible watch an experienced rider on the pony to asses its way of going.
  7. Make sure the pony is comfortable to sit on.  Wide but not too wide.
  8. Make sure the pony is a good size. Not too big and not too small, although small is definitely preferable to too big.
  9. Find out if the pony suffers from conditions like sweet itch and laminitis.  These need not necessarily preclude a sale (or loan) but they need managing, so make sure you know what this involves.
  10. Think about what is going to happen to the pony when your child has grown out of it.

That aside those top ten tips what other considerations do you need in order to make the right decision?

Even though you may have had a wonderful experience with your own first pony, you have probably come across many people who have been bitten, kicked, or ones with “runaway pony” stories. Most of these people either no longer ride, or are reluctant to ride because of the bad experiences they had as a child.

Finding a trainer for your pony and for your child:  Whilst experienced trainers who are small enough to ride your childs first pony are thinner on the ground than others it is worth taking the time to find the right trainer.  As your child progresses from his first pony or even onto his third and starts competing then it is important that your instructor can help with schooling and correcting any issues that arise with the pony.

Children are generally small and inexperienced and need someone to help keep everything on the straight and narrow. One way to do this is to ensure that the pony has enough exercise and is schooled regularly.

Enjoy your child’s delight in their first pony and I hope that this venture into the world of horses is a positive one.

 

 

 

 

 

Horse Advice

Outstanding Horses- what to look for

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The horse, an athlete to be admired!

The most exciting and exacting time when involved in following racehorses, is seeing them in the paddock pre-race. It is also, I believe, essential if you are really interested in what makes a good or exceptional competitor – for that is what they are.

The two disciplines are flat racing and National Hunt. For both I am looking for presence, attitude, movement, conformation and something that occasionally is almost impossible to describe – an innate feeling that the thoroughbred generates in me, one of awe, she/he is saying I am the best, the business, so forget the rest!

Let’s take the horse that is bred to flat race first.  It needs to have strength, this is not to be confused with bone; there are many (particularly fillies) that are light, but have all the bits in all the right places.  Reasonably compact, with a good intelligent head and a bright open interested eye.  The neck needs to be well set on and the shoulder sloping to give freedom of movement.  The back needs not to be long, the quarters powerful the hocks well placed underneath.  When young they are “leggy” that’s fine as long as all is in proportion and not ever behind the knee or too upright in the pastern.  Watch how they walk, tracking up by a good 12” gets a plus and the walk should be very active.  A horse that walks well will usually gallop well. Now look from the front; is he/she standing over “good ground”.  Let’s say the width of a small terrier dog, or do the legs come out of the same hole?  If we are looking for a short to middle distance horse we need the first, if we are looking for stamina for longer distance the second is no problem.  However for the flat racer we are talking about let’s stick with a good space between chest and legs.

The race bred thoroughbred is not renowned for good feet.  No foot, no horse?  Well, not necessarily so – as long as all four look the same, nothing odd or boxy, given the task they are bred for it is not a major consideration and these days the trainers and farriers are well able to compensate for most of the common problems.

What have we left to look at as a snapshot – the action generally.  Is the horse grass cutting, pointing the toe, or can we see more movement from the knee?  In the paddock at walk, there is not so much information for us, so we need to watch he/she canter down to the post, much is learnt about how the horse will act on the ground by their action here.  And also how naturally balanced they are.

A little anecdote:

Newbury races 1976.  I was paddock side watching the 3 year old colts coming in for the Greenham Stakes, a very important trial for the 2000 Guineas.

No horse would be anything but impressive at this level. All were being led round, in the peak of condition, a visual feast of power and beauty.  And then – Wollow came in.  He was quite extraordinary; not particularly robust, tall and still quite leggy but oh my, what presence.  His head held high, a stunning head; totally imperious and somehow looking down on, and apart from, every other colt in the ring.  He moved like a ballerina, elegant and light.  I couldn’t take my eyes off him.  The big burly colts suddenly became uninteresting, he was covered in stardust and he knew it.  Luckily so did I!

He won by 7 lengths.

Professional Rider

Trade Secrets that a professional work rider or groom already knows

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Here are some top tips that every work rider and professional groom knows.  If you are looking for a work rider to help you out or a groom to join your yard you can be confident that they know these things!  If you look after your own horse then wow your horse friends with a sparkly horse using these top tips.

 

  1. If you have a gray horse or one with a lot of chrome, keep some spray-on equine stain remover—created to deal with manure and grass stains—at the ready.
  1. As you groom, inspect your horse for injuries, skin irritations or areas of sensitivity. Run your bare hands down his legs to check for heat or swelling.
  1. Keep up with routine grooming chores, such as mane pulling, trimming fetlocks, et cetera. That way you’re not overwhelmed with last minute clean-up before a show.
  1. If your horse objects to having his mane pulled, try doing a little each day after exercise, while his pores are open.
  1. Check your horse’s stall or paddock fencing for protruding objects: Wounds lead to blemishes and worse.
  1. Let sweat and mud dry before attempting to brush it out. Or, hose your horse off while it is still wet.
  1. When plaiting or training a mane over to one side, use a mane mousse to help get wayward hairs under control.
  1. Color enhancing shampoos accentuate your horse’s natural tones and bring out the highlights of his coat. Washing blue in a black or grey tail make give it a wow factor.  (Always check a small patch of skin first)
  1. Using oil specifically designed for your horse’s face, rather than baby oil, will collect less dust at the show. Check contents on bottle.

10.  Let your horse roll—dirt isn’t permanent.

 

Eventing

Fundraising with a difference – Rides for UK based horse charities

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Charities which support horses and particularly those which support the welfare of UK horses and ponies will always need donations and funds raised by us horsey folks. A great way to meet likeminded groups of people would be to arrange meetings or events through your local equestrian centres and Horse Scout has a number of Yards listed and there is sure to be one in your area.

Here are a couple of kickstarter ideas if you want to saddle up and go get those money buckets filled.

Since the launch of the first British Horse Society fundraising riding challenge in 2000, hundreds of riders have taken part in an adventure overseas. The ‘Lawrence of Arabia’ riding challenge opened the door for our intrepid challengers to travel the world in aid of British Horse Society welfare. The challenges now operate in Bulgaria, Iceland, Mongolia, Inner Mongolia, India, Jordan, Peru, Spain and Lesotho. There is a trip to inspire everyone, each offering a unique experience no matter where you ride.

These challenges really do put the fun in fundraising but as well as enjoying a life-changing trip, all of the riders raise money that is vital in continuing our welfare work. Without the aid of our dedicated challengers our nationwide network of welfare officers would not be able to help anywhere near as many horses as they do. The British Horse Society has over 200 equine specialist welfare officers, more than any other charity, and together they improve the lives of countless horses, ponies and donkeys in every corner of the UK.

Some orgainisations like the World Horse Welfare Group who are the UK’s largest horse rescue and rehoming charity, use funds to provide a dedicated network of Field Officers who work hard to investigate reports of horses in distress, advising owners or bringing horses to their centres for urgent care and rehabilitation. They also campaign to improve policy and practice across the equine world, shaping the laws that protect horses and promoting better standards of care and in 2015 World Horse Welfare are planning to hold four rides.

So if you want to show your support for UK horse charities and fundraisers – saddle up! We guarantee you won’t regret it.

Perhaps you have your own pet charity already and need some advice on where you can legally ride in your area? A good place to start would be the Affiliated Bridleways Group

Buying A Horse

Top Tips for bonding with your new horse.

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You’ve checked out Horse Scouts Horses for sale pages and fond the perfect match  are you on the a mission to buy a new horse.  Looking for the right horse for sale can be stressful, although undoubtedly exciting.  With lots of people trying him out and disrupting his daily routine it can also be stressful for the horse who is for sale. It does not stop there though , your new horse is then moved from the familiar and is faced with getting used to new people and new surroundings to get used to. A good bonding exercise and one which will help your horse feel that he has a true friend is to spend time grooming him and this also helps you to get to know him too..  Here are some top tips to try out on your new horse.

Top Tips to make your new horse as sparkly as he can be.

1. Ask your vet about adding vegetable oil or an essential Omega-3 fatty acid supplement to your horse’s well-balanced diet for added shine.

2. Sponging your horse’s face clean after exercise helps prevent fungal hair loss.

3. Keep different sized sponges for different duties (face, body, dock) and remember which is used for each task.

4. Hoof picks are cheap. Always use a sharp one to remove  debris, and replace the pick when it no longer does the job easily.

5. Use a tail bag to keep your horse’s tail thick, long and protected. Make sure to wash, condition, detangle and replait once a week, securing the tail bag below the tailbone.

6. Spend two minutes every two weeks running your clippers over your horse’s whiskers.

7. Hoof oils and dressings for health or show are available. If you have a particular concern in mind, such as hooves that crack easily, ask your farrier for product suggestions.

8. Use a detangler and a wide-toothed comb (or your fingers) to remove any large snarls from mane and tail.

9. Dark coats often fade or bleach in the sunlight, so provide plenty of shade and consider adding a sheet. Sweat in the coat accelerates the fade, so rinse a sweaty horse before allowing him to bask in the sunshine.

10. Wash your horse but don’t overdo it—frequent shampooing may actually dull his coat.

If you are looking for a new horse take a look at the for sale listings on Horse Scout.  Good luck and happy brushing.