Tag Archives: horse

Interesting Horse Facts

Is grooming a haze of hair for you? Four Pointers For De Fuzzing Your Horse

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Spring may be sprung – but sometimes its quite hard to un stick your horses hair!

Alas, when it comes to helping a horse lose his winter coat there are no magical short cuts, and the only thing Horse Scout Blogger can offer – that is guaranteed to work is:

Daily grooming and an application of good old-fashioned elbow grease!

To make things a little less scary but no less hairy:

  1. Grooming after exercise when the horse is warm and the pores of the skin are more open is much easier and the coat will shed more quickly.
  2. Use a rubber curry comb, a dandy brush and/or a grooming mitt to remove dead hair then go over the coat with a body brush to help massage the skin and stimulate the oil glands.
  3. To help protect your clothing try wearing overalls and if you have an allergy it is advisable to wear a disposable paper mask (readily available in supermarkets and chemists).
  4. On a good note, there is nothing more satisfying or calorie busting than a vigorous grooming session that ends with the emergence of a sleek, smart horse. Welcome to spring!

After such a long, cold winter riders have been looking forward to the spring and summer so that we can get out and enjoy our horses more. However, with the onset of longer daylight hours and warmer weather comes the inevitable shedding of winter coats and many of us disappearing in a haze of loose hair and dandruff every time we groom! It’s funny how the horse ends up looking smart but we end up coughing and spluttering and covered in hair.

Like many animals, horses grow a thick winter coat to help protect them against cold weather. The long, fluffy winter coat stands up and traps pockets of air to create an insulating layer and retain the heat. It is common for a horse, particularly bays to appear to change coat colour in the spring and summer. Some bay horses have an undercoat that is almost black and others appear to have a lighter summer coat.

Several elements trigger hair growth and shedding and these include environmental, nutritional and hormonal factors. The longer, warmer days of spring help to stimulate the loss of the winter coat.

Failure to lose the winter coat can be related to several different factors including a hormone imbalance. Older horses can often develop a condition known as Cushing’s disease, or Cushing’s syndrome, which affects the adrenal glands and requires veterinary diagnosis and medication. Horses that do not shed their coats may need to in order to keep them comfortable in warm weather.

Parasites can deplete a horse of necessary nutrients and affect the coat, and so implementing a regular and up-to-date worming routine is vital. Adding a daily dose of vegetable or linseed oil to the horse’s feed may help to promote a shinier coat and speed up the shedding process.

You may notice that your horse rolls more or rubs against trees or fences to help work the old hair loose. A sweating horse becomes very itchy and uncomfortable and so grooming is very important, but excessive dandruff or greasy skin, can indicate other problems so check the skin and hair for signs of lice or skin disease.

Horse Riding Tips

Spring Is Sprung, the grass is riz….I wonder what a fructon is – 7 key facts about “Fructans” in grass

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Do you keep your own horse has spring fever struck and you are going to buy a new horse? Springtime is lovely with all the blossoms and daffodils suddenly brightening up your garden or decorating the driveway to your local competition centre or cross country venue.  However, says sage Horse Scout Blogger(!), with the daffodils comes the new spring grass is typically high in particular nutrients called fructans – to which your horse’s digestive tract is unaccustomed after a long winter on hay and which can be hard on the hindgut. As a result, the equine digestive system needs to be slowly conditioned to handle hours of grazing green pasture grass. What Are Fructans In Grass? “Fructans” in grass are fructose chain molecules, a type of sugar. This sugar is a byproduct of photosynthesis and is used to aid plant growth. On sunny days, fructose is produced in large quantities and stored within the blade of grass. When it cools off at night, these fructans are then utilized as fuel for growth. Fructans are higher in the seasons when the weather is cool: spring and fall. They are still present during hot summers, but not usually at levels that can be dangerous. Here are a few key things you should know about fructan levels:

  1. Higher in stressed pastures than in lush grass
  2. Higher when night-time temperatures drop below 40 degrees (because the grasses do not grow, so the excess remains stored in the stems)
  3. Lower in new spring grass (first 3-6 inches), but also lower in fiber
  4. High in mature grass (8-10 inches), but also higher in fiber
  5. Lower in the morning when days are sunny and nights warm
  6. Higher in the afternoon/evening on a sunny day
  7. Lower in rainy, wet weather

How Do Fructans Affect Horses? Because fructans are a non-structural carbohydrate, horses cannot digest them. Therefore, fructans must be broken down by the microorganisms in the equine hindgut first so that they can be absorbed. Because they are a type of sugar, horses love to eat grasses that are high in fructans. Horses that are unaccustomed to grass turnout, that have been on hay all winter, or that are already prone to colic and laminitis can have their digestive tracts upset easily by high levels of fructans. Here’s how it works: The types of microorganisms in a horse’s hindgut vary according to the types of food it eats. When a horse is suddenly put out on pasture after a winter of hay, the microorganisms aren’t equipped to digest the high levels of fructans, and the bacteria die. When the good bacteria dies off, the acidity of the hindgut is raised (lactic acid is produced) and harmful pathogens are released. The lactic acid and pathogens are absorbed into the bloodstream and are known causes of laminitis. When the acidity level of the hindgut increases quickly as it is prone to do when fructans are high, the horse can also colic. While some horses have a higher risk for colic and laminitis, they are very serious conditions that can affect any horse if it isn’t managed carefully. Spring Grass Management Tips to Avoid Health Risks Fortunately, careful management in feeding and turnout can help protect your horse from health risks like laminitis and colic caused by high levels of fructans in grass. The key is to build up time on grass slowly. Increase Spring Turnout Gradually For all horses that have subsisted on hay all winter, introduce pasture time incrementally over a period of weeks. At Freedom Farm, we start our horses on grass for an hour a day, and then increase that time by 15-30 minutes each subsequent day. If the weather is bad and we have to skip a day of turnout, we keep the horses at the same amount of time the next time they go out. Horses with a higher tolerance may be able to start out with a longer time initially, while horses particularly prone to issues may need to start at less. Alternatively, if you have a horse that lives out 24-7 it is prudent to bring it in off grass for part of the day when grass is newly growing and fructan levels are high. Avoid Afternoon Grasses Because fructan levels reach their highest in the afternoon on sunny days, it’s best to turnout in the morning or late at night. Maintain Pastures Fructans levels are higher in pastures that are overgrazed or where grass is too mature. Rotate pastures to give them a break, and keep them mowed to 4-8 inches.   – See more here with Succeed Equine who run some very interesting articles.

Dressage

Simulated riding sessions – Stay Sober and Smile. Try Leggless at Quob Stables in Hampshire

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Horse Scout Blogger is bouncing today: Well, I wish I was!  Have you ever thought about perfecting your aids or checking how straight you sit?

I was looking at Daisy Jacksons’ Profile on Horse Scout’s Professional Trainers lists and saw that her pyhsio therapists ‘The Balanced Rider’ had Access to a Horse Simulator.

The simulator The Balanced Rider practice use stands at Quob Stables, a smart Equestrian Centre in Hampshire and they offer sessions on “Legless” (brilliant name) for around £35.00. They say that their Dressage Simulator is fun and comfortable to ride. It is ideal to teach riders of all levels, ages and abilities.

The Interactive Dressage Simulator is the most valuable and realistic instructional aid in dressage. It teaches the rider position and control, it develops technique, skill, muscle memory and confidence. It is possible to complete the test and then play it back on the screen

The Advantages listed for riding a simulator are:

1. For the instructor

  • Close proximity to students when teaching

2. For the rider

  • Safe practice for nervous riders
  • Safe and controlled environment
  • Learn the correct posture in minutes
  • Recover from injury with safe measured steps
  • General fitness

3. For everyone!

  • All weather training

The simulator is the same size as a real horse and its action is very close to the natural feel of a real horse. When riding in the simulated arena, the rider is drawn in to the sensation of actually riding in a real ring.

As a teaching aid to help pin point exactly how to give the aids for new movements or to check that you are applying aids correctly, sitting straight, etc this seems like a gift.  Perhaps it could be a gift for someone you think would benefit from a session with their trainer or one from Quob…I wonder if Daisy Jackson has ever tried it!

Daisy is a professional dressage rider, based in Dorset/Hampshire training her current horse to PSG, competing at Advanced Medium. She was on the GB Junior Squad 2012-2013 with International Grand Prix horse Saint Swithens. She has trained with some impressive professionals herself; squad training with Stephen Clarke and Sandy Phillips, and also top trainers such as Dan Greenwood and Nicola Buchanan. Sshe was selected for the High Performance programme and received training with Olympic riders and international judges including Jennie Loriston-Clarke, Anna Ross Davies and Judy Harvey. Daisy is currently training with Nicola Buchanan, Gareth Hughes and Nicky Barrett. Holds Advanced Apprenticeship in Sporting Excellence. Training towards UKCC. Available by appointment for training. If you are looking for a trainer in Hampshire contact Nicky here.

for The Balanced Riders practice click here

 

Dressage

Is Elastic Fantastic? The Impact Of Elastic Inserts On Rein Tension

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Horse Scout Bloggers’ conundrum toady: In conversation the other day I was asked about a horse which consistently tensed against his riders hands, his rider wondered what she could do with a pulling horse, and the conversation turned to the use of elastic reins to diffuse tension. The first port of call is always to seek advice from the ground with the help of a professional trainer but the question was an interesting one and I decided to investigate the arguments for and against.

I notice that, among others, Carl Hester sells them through his website shop under the banner “CARL HESTER FANTASTIC ELASTIC DRESSAGE REINS’ The website states that they are designed by the Olympic Gold Medalist to give an elastic feel from the hand to the horses mouth. Followed by a quote from Carl Hester – “As a rider and trainer my constant quest is to connect horse and rider with the ultimate ‘elastic’ feel, these reins do exactly that”

The bullet points for their use state that the elastic inserts

  • Encourage a soft consistant contact
  • Help improve hand position
  • Eliminate resistance in the mouth
  • Elastic insert for soft contact

And that they are:-

  • Training aid only, not permitted in competition
  • Horse size only in black or brown
  • Top quality British leather
  • Dressage rein has rubber grip on inside

I can certainly understand the thinking behind the design, particularly when teaching riders about the need to think forward at all times and not to rely on force or tension through transitions and that they may well help with the understanding of “feel” in riding.

Conversely I can also empathise with the IESC findings which indicate that, whilst they had a positive impact on tension in horses; riders can easily mistime their rein aids, not release sufficiently or apply to much tension (thus learning bad habits) because the elastic dulls/blurs the feel on the horses mouth.  Below is the report from the conference.

17-Aug-last year the 10th International Equitation Science Conference was held in Denmark.  This conference covered Equine Stress, Learning and Training and one particular topic was the impact of elastic inserts on rein tension.

They say: Elastic has been used over the years to achieve ‘give’ and flexibility in equestrian equipment such as girths and reins. The reins provide a physical means for the delivery of signals/aids from the human to the horse. Rein design with the inclusion of elastic inserts are designed to “diffuse tension, to avoid pressure on the horse’s mouth and to avoid sustained tension on the reins”. However researchers found that this design can have a substantial impact on the tensions applied particularly when making transitions during equitation.

 

The study bought to the table to argue this was was conducted by Hayley Randle, PhD, Academic Lead: Quality and Research at Duchy College and Hon. President of the International Society for Equitation Science and Alison Abbey Equitation Science programme manager from Duchy College, UK. Randle and Abbey set out to determine the effect of elastic inserts in reins on first, the tension applied for normal riding and a walk to halt transition, and second, the ability to release the tension in the reins.

Thirty female riders (note: the study does not seem to comment on the expertise of these riders) rode horses with either standard rubber or rubber reins with elastic inserts. Rein tensions were measured using a Centaur Rein Tension Gauge TM for left and right hands, with both rein types when taking up a normal riding contact and executing a walk to halt transition.

The results of the study demonstrated significantly different tensions were applied by riders with the two types of rein. Lower tensions were exerted on reins with the elastic insert than with the rigid reins in the normal riding contact condition, whilst higher tensions were evident with elastic insert reins than with rigid reins in the walk to halt transition. The time taken for rein tension to return to zero following complete release by the rider was significantly greater, and less consistent, with the elastic insert reins than with the rigid reins.

Since sustainable and ethical equitation relies upon the effective delivery and receipt of clear signals and timely pressure-release; rein tension and pressure-release should be used carefully and consistently in training. This study suggests that although elastic inserts in reins may result in less tension in general riding, they may alter riders’ behaviour in terms of the tension applied when executing a particular equitation task. Furthermore, elastic inserts in reins may have a deleterious effect on a rider’s ability to apply negative reinforcement accurately and therefore clarity during training.

The impaired ability to simultaneously release pressure may have a negative impact on equine learning and training, and consequently equine stress and welfare.  The consensus at the conference was that further research is needed into the incorporation of materials such as elastics.

On the Ground

Your Horse Editor, Julie Brown, says:

Carl Hester gave me these reins at Your Horse Live last year, as he thought they might be useful for my horse Boris – I was struggling to keep him in a consistent, soft outline. I sold Boris shortly after but recently I’ve been using them with my young mare Vespa. Being a baby, she sometimes tries to use my hands as a prop, particularly if she’s a little tired. To stop this and to make sure I wasn’t making it worse by pulling back, I thought I’d give these a go. The reins have an elastic insert that gives slightly, allowing for a soft feel. It’s impossible for the horse to take a hold which, in turn, makes sure the rider isn’t being too heavy either.

She goes on to say “The results weren’t instantaneous but after a few sessions I definitely saw the benefit. Even if Vespa did try to lean, she

wasn’t able to, and a nice soft contact ensued. They aren’t dressage legal, so Vespa needs to learn to take a nice soft contact no matter what reins I’m using, but I find that if I have a schooling session full of leaning and pulling and everything else fails, then using the reins really works. I can highly recommend them as a training aid to be used when needed.”

Having read articles for and against I think that they are a good idea in moderation, I think, like many training aids, they have a place.  I also think that training aids are not a panacea and that, ultimately, it is correct training, correct riding, goal setting and incremental training programmes which make a horse work well and a partnership successful.

They say “Patience is a virtue” the reality is that you will get virtually nowhere without Patience.

Horse Riding Tips

Spook McGill? 19 Top Tips for de-sensitising your horse – not numbing it!

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One of the first things that happens when a horse spooks – is the rider spooks too!

So, take a break; don’t think Kit Kat think Cadbury’s Caramels’ Rabbit and “Take it easy”

  1. First you: The following tips show how you can calm yourself down,  and in turn help to calm your horse:
  2. Breathe! When we are anxious our breathing becomes rapid or stops. Take deep breaths to relax yourself.
  3. Relax your shoulders. Drop your shoulders down and let your arms relax a little too.
  4. Relax your legs. The tenser you are the more your legs will dig in. A sensitive horse may confuse this as an aid.
  5. Talk in a soothing voice. “Shhh” your horse and talk calmly to it in a low husky “whickering” voice.  You can practice this at home, soothing your horse when grooming and just making it a relaxing time for him/her. This will also relax  you.
  6. Laugh and Yawn. Even if you are on the verge of tears, yawn and giggle even sing! If you are doing this at home when your horse is relaxed, he will associate the sound with no danger.
  7. Know your horse  If you know what your horses limits are then you can work on them.
  8. Soothe Your Horse. Horses don’t like to be afraid, so work on their natural instincts to bring them back to harmony.
  9. Encourage your horse to lower its head by having low and open arms. A horse is relaxed when its head and ears are down.
  10. Scratch your horses withers and neck as if you are mutually grooming.
  11. If you have a new horse always introduce them to a few “scary” things in the arena or yard before hitting the road.
  12. Introduce potentially spooky things when you horse is in a safe enclosed space.
  13. At first leave things far away but clearly seen then gradually move them nearer.
  14. Don’t always put them into the same place – or the horse might come to associate that particular area with spooks and then continually spook just there even when there is nothing to actually spook at!
  15. As he becomes accustomed move things into the arena and ask him to work around them.
  16. Working from the ground initially and give him something else to think about such as asymmetric poles laid on the ground, or jump stands to walk around and through; anything which will ask him to think about other things.
  17. Again introduce all new things slowly, take your time and praise then stop and return another time.
  18. Many people use the following in an arena to desensitize their horses: umbrellas, wheelbarrows, bikes, cars/lawnmowers, tarpaulins or plastic bags on the fence or even the ground.
  19. Do this safely though and think about yours and the horses safety.
Horse Advice

10 Top Tips – Keeping Calm and Carrying on – if you are cool your horse can be calm

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Its not always easy to stay entirely calm when your horse is spooking or being sharp, especially if the behaviour is putting you or others in danger. If you are terrified your horse will think “oh, there is something to be afraid of” but will not make the connection that what you are afraid of is your horse! Don’t Be Afraid It is sometimes easier said than done, but anyone riding a horse knows that it can pick up on your emotions and it will affect their sate of mind.

So how would you calm a spooking/fresh horse?”

  1. Top tip is to “keep their attention on you” hacking out or warming up use diversion tactics to get them to listen to you.  Keep calm breath slowly and into the bottom of your lungs so that the ribcage fills out and back at the bottom.   Focus your attention in front of the horse, keep your head in balance and your shoulders, back and seat relaxed (…not slumped – relaxed) ask your horse to back up, move his shoulders over change direction etc. All can be done when hacking out, opening gates, going over bridges (particularly motorway ones – Scary or what?)
  2. Use  lateral flexion – Bend the ribs by only using leg aids if the horse does not respond this tells you your horse is bracing or his mind is somewhere else.
  3. Practice at home, riding at different speeds within a gait, so three speeds of walk, trot and canter.
  4. Lunge before you ride to take the edge off your horse.
  5. If he wants to increase speed going home, it shows and tells us that he’s un-confident … rushing home!
  6. Once he gets home work him, rest & work again … stay chilled you don’t want him working that hard that he sweats like crazy .. then tie up for a while.
  7. Out hacking get him to walk away from home at different speeds (or trot and canter) on way home, same deal … slow walk, then medium … etc.
  8. Avoid standing still as it is probably going to wind him up. Let his feet move but direct his energy in a way that keeps his attention on you
  9. Look at your work routine are you encourageing the horse to rush home for food? Breaking this cycle by a short hack then a work out  or a work out then a hack/lunge (whichever your horse likes least) will help change their mind setting
  10. It is important to praise your horse too, if they behave let them know you’re proud with a soothing voice and a scratch.
Horse Advice

Lets Look at Leg Yielding – 9 Top Tips to help you make use of this strengthening exercise.

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The aim of leg yielding: To demonstrate the suppleness and lateral responsiveness of the Horse.

Leg-yielding is performed in Working trot in FEI Competitions.

What is looks like

The Horse is almost straight, except for a slight flexion at the poll away from the direction in which it moves, so that the rider is just able to see the eyebrow and nostril on the inside. The inside legs pass and cross in front of the outside legs.

Leg-yielding is preparatory work for more complex movements and is a good first step in strengthening the horses back muscles. It should be included in the training of the horse before it is ready for Collected work. Later on, together with the more advanced shoulder-in movement.

It is the best means of making a horse supple, loose and unconstrained for and a will prepare the horse to move with freedom, elasticity and regularity of its paces bringing lightness and ease in its movements.

Leg yielding can be performed “on the diagonal” in which case the Horse should be as nearly as possible parallel to the long sides of the arena, although the forehand should be slightly in advance of the hindquarters. It can also be performed “along the wall” in which case the Horse should be at an angle of about thirty five (35) degrees to the direction in which he is moving.

How to Execute the Leg Yield (tracking right)

  1. Start in Working Trot, sitting
  2. When approaching the long side, half halt
  3. Shift weight to left seat bone
  4. Apply the left leg behind the girth – actively pushing sideways each time the left hind lifts and starts a forward/sideways step
  5. Right rein guides the direction of travel and prevents bulging of the right shoulder
  6. Right leg continues forward movement and prevents rushing away from the left leg
  7. Apply left rein for slight flexion – this is the last aid and is applied lightly
  8. Straighten and ride forward
  9. Please note that the horse is ridden straight between the reins.

Many variations of this exercise can be used to assist in preparation for more advanced lateral movement. If you are unfamiliar with the leg yield aids, you can practice this exercise at the walk to familiarize yourself with the appropriate application and timing of your aids. This exercise can be executed along the rail or on the inside of the arena as well.

Purpose of the Leg Yield

This movement is the precursor to the shoulder-in and half pass seen in the more advanced tests. The horse should remain supple and relaxed during the execution of this movement.

To supple the horse

To assist with initial straightening for other more advanced movements

Each of the above reasons relates to confirmation of or improvement of the horse’s balance. Half halts can be used as needed so long as appropriate releases and praise are used.

It is also a good exercise in warm up executed with the horse in a long low outline particularly where a horse is broken in the neck and tends to over bend and, therefore, is avoiding coming through along his top line.

Common Errors in Execution

  • Horse does not remain straight
  • Horse leads with hind quarters
  • Rider applies too much inside rein & not enough supporting rein
  • Horse is too steep sideways due to not enough forward driving aids.

 

Dressage

Horse Scout International Listings – Professional livery and training facilities even in Egypt

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Horse Scout International  Listings – Professional livery and training facilities even in Egypt

Are you thinking of visiting Egypt and want to do some riding while you are there, The Stallion Centre sounds wonderful.  Below is a piece taken from their website describing their facilities and where they are situated.

“Stallion Equestrian Center” is a specialised private center for teaching horse back riding at any stage for children & adults. it offers a high standard of training, it aims to develop highly qualified new riders and fulfill all riding disciplines and interests including Beginners Lessons, Dressage Lessons & Jumping Lessons.

The perfect choice for those who love nature, by providing them with the opportunity to observe the great beauty of Sakkara desert, and Wadi el Rayan’s beautiful lakes and desert ,our overnight trips to the old roman village and gold British mine situated between the mountains of Hurghada and other trips to explore the magnificent nature among the mountains of Sharm El Sheikh.

We have started our own horseback-riding dream by building our first private Equestrian Center in Ahmed Orabi. Over the past few years, the owner and trainer, Mr. Mohamed Khalifa, managed to develop a strong foundation with beautiful well trained horses, cozy, comfortable atmosphere, and well equipped stables with modern facilities.

Stallion Equestrian” Center started by establishing it’s first facility located in Ahmed Orabi, Cairo- Ismailia Desert Road with only 8 stables, 1 paddock, a lunging area, and 5 riders. It was known since then to be a very welcoming, safe, and dedicated place for teaching young children the art of horsemanship.

The owner, Mohamed Khalifa comes from a family of horsemen deeply involved in the horse world. He started riding at the age of five in Feroseiah club. Then, by the age of fifteen he joined the Armed Forces show jumping team.

He was one of the pioneers who understood the importance of private centers to the sport. Until the 1990’s all sports were only available in big clubs, where memberships are usually very expensive and hard to get. Then people started to be interested in private centers specialized in specific sports like tennis, bowling, golf, and horseback riding.

Being the pioneers in establishing the first private Equestrian Center specialized only in the equestrian field in Egypt gave us the confidence over the past few years, to develop a strong foundation withbeautiful well trained horses, cozy comfortable atmosphere, and well equipped stables with modern facilities. “Stallion Equestrian Center” is not only for beginner children! Adults as well are offered training at all levels.

Improvements in the center were done by Phases. Phase one we increased the number of stables to 34 second phase we added the Royal Stables , which consists of 13 box, tack room, washing area, separate food storage, trainer residence, grooming box, one lunge and a lightened riding arena. Third phase we added the Arabian Stud, which consist of two stables one for breeding (9 boxes) and the second for raising(8 boxes) including boarding for grooms & storage.

“Stallion Equestrian Center” has become a second home for all its riders. The families love to go there enjoy the sport and the homey environment. They all grew to be a big family celebrating most of their occasions there, with parties and barbecues!

Horse Advice

How can I stop my horse pulling? …. 3 steps to go!

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Does your horse get offended when you pull on the reins to stop? Does he pin his ears, shake his head, and keep going? Have you ever asked “how can I stop my horse pulling?”

Maybe he’s trying to tell you something: stop pulling on the reins! 🙂

There is a way to get your horse to stop without pulling on the reins.

but first, you both have to be “in sync” together, working in tandem instead of against each other.

If you haven’t done this before, it may take a few tries to convince your horse that you want to work with him. Horses that are regularly pulled on seem to accept that the pressure has to be there before they should respond. They might learn to lean on the bit, pulling against you while you pull backward, hoping for the legs to stop.

Some horses are generous and eventually slow their feet, stop/starting until finally, all four legs come to a halt. Other horses might not be quite as forgiving and just keep going until you have to put more and more pressure on the mouth. Eventually, one of you wins but it’s never pretty!

We all dream of finding the halt that looks like we are in complete harmony with our horse. You know – the one that feels like the horse’s legs are your legs, and your mind is so coordinated with the horse that it looks like you are reading each other’s thoughts.

It does happen. The secret: ride from your seat.

Setup for a Correct Halt

1. Contact

Prepare several strides ahead of the intended location. Your reins should be a good length – not too long and not too short. There should be a steady enough contact on the bit to be able to communicate very subtle changes of pressure.

2. Begin a series of half-halts.

The half-halts start at the seat. In rhythm with the horse’s movement, resist with your lower back. Be sure to resist in rhythm. In other words, your lower back and seat will feel something like this: resist… flow… resist… flow… resist… flow.

2a. Use your legs.

During each flow moment, squeeze lightly with your calves. This helps the horse engage his hind end deeper underneath the body in preparation with the halt.

2b. Use the hands.

During each resist moment, squeeze the reins with your hands. You might squeeze both reins or just one rein (the outside rein being the usual rein) but in any case, do your best to use the hands after the leg aids. The rein pressure should occur in tandem with the resisting seat aid.

3.When you are ready for the halt, simply stop your seat.

Maintain contact with your legs and reins, but stop the activity. Don’t keep pulling on the reins.

If the horse is truly with you, his legs will stop lightly and in balance.

Horses that have been trained to respond to the half-halt will sigh in relief when you lighten up on your aids and use your seat in the halt. You might be surprised at how easily the legs will stop if you can improve your timing and releases.

Horses that have always been pulled on might not respond at all. They might be expecting to be hauled backward, thrown to the forehand, and dragged to a stop. If this is the case, be patient. If you haven’t done this before, it may take a few tries to convince your horse that you want to work with him.

You might have to bridge the learning gap by applying the half-halts several times, stopping your seat and then pulling to stop. In the end though, the pull should disappear completely from your vocabulary (exception: in an emergency stop).

Regardless of how you get there, the goal is to stop all four legs in a light, balanced manner that allows the horse to use his hind end when he takes that last step. Your horse might walk a few strides and then halt.

If you feel your horse’s front end lighten and into the halt, you know you are on the right track. If you discover the four legs stopped square and parallel to each other, pet and gush over him, and call it a day!

Sound talking : horse listening.

Perhaps you would benefit from some lessons, someone on the ground to help you keep on track.  Horse Scout has a great list of professional trainers, check them out here – they should be able to help you stop your horse from pulling.

Horse Advice

Looking to learn? – 8 Tips to help point you in the right direction and find the right instructor for you

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Lets help you find your perfect match in the arena. If you are thinking that you want to learn to ride or to improve your techniques then you need an instructor who will work well with you and you need to really think about the what, the how and the when?

  1. If you are a novice then opt for a venue which offers joint classes for different age groups, a range of riding instructors, and different school master horses.
  2. Trainers are usually the best option if you want to learn a specific style of riding, develop your competitive ability, or work with both you and your horse. Consider carefully what you want to learn – classical riding, show jumping, natural horsemanship riding, dressage or even cross country riding.
  3. Do you want regular lessons, or an intensive course?
  4. Are you willing to travel with your horse weekly or less often?
  5. Find a lecture or demonstration at a local event to see exactly what is possible – many large riding schools and Equestrian Centres have these throughout the year so you can see what is achievable and whether the method is really what you want to learn.
  6. Research online what other riders have found helped.
  7. If your horse lacks confidence or has behavioural problems, attending a course that shows you how to use natural horsemanship may give you the skills to teach your horse yourself.
  8. Does your horse have problems with certain dressage movements – try a lesson on a school master first to get the feel of how a movement feels.

Just remember that one size doesn’t fit all. Horse Scout has some top professional trainers who are expert in their fields.  Click here to find a perfect match for you and your horse.