Tag Archives: Rider Advice

Professional Rider

Are you sitting comfortably ? choosing the right saddle

Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmail

Your choice of saddle is very important as your enjoyment of horse riding will depend on it. Indeed, a badly chose saddle can discomfort, or even injure, your horse, making both horse and rider less competitive.

The right saddle will give you comfort and allow you to sit in a position that suits your chosen discipline.

Each discipline is itself dependent on the body shape of both horse and rider, and on the frequency of riding.

Here, you can read our tips to help you make the right choice.

Choosing according to use

1- Beginner’s saddle

2- general Purpose saddle

3- Jumping saddle

4- Dressage saddle

5- Western and Endurance saddles

1) Features of a beginner’s saddle

–       Suited to those starting out in horse riding (particularly small children).

–       Comfortable (wider seat).

–       Classic position (more concave seat).

–       More pronounced, or even oversized, pommel and cantle, to keep a child sitting stably on the seat.

–       Monkey grip.

2) Features of a general purpose saddle

–       A multi-use saddle, not designed for any specific discipline.

–       A good position for working on the flat.

–       Comfortable for small jumps (flaps angled slightly forwards).

–       Pleasant for leisure riding.

–       Semi-concave seat.

– Wider seat, for greater comfort when hacking.

3) Features of a jumping saddle

–       The orientation of the flaps (angled forwards) allows the rider to ride with shorter stirrup leathers and to stay balanced when jumping.

–       Seat with thinner panels.

–       Knee rolls front and back to stabilise leg position.

4) Features of a dressage saddle

–       Long flaps to allow the legs to extend downwards (almost perpendicular to the seat).

–       Comfortable.

–       Concave seat (rider seated stably on the saddle).

–       Often, long straps (increasing contact between rider and horse).

5) Features of western riding or endurance saddle

–       Comfort for the rider: wide seat.

–       Comfort for the horse (rider’s weight well distributed, wide, larger panels).

–       Several places from which to hang saddlebags.

–       Good withers clearance, giving greater comfort for the horse.

Leather or synthetic?

The two materials each have both advantages and disadvantages. It all depends on how you use your saddle!

Leather

–       A natural, high-quality material

–       Traditional

–       Generally more attractive aesthetically

–       Long-lasting if well cared for

–       Slow to dry after heavy rain

–       Needs regular care

Synthetic

–       More economical

–       Easy care

–       Dries quickly after rain

–       Lightweight

–       Can heat up with friction

–       Shorter-lived, especially with intensive riding

Size

The seat should provide a space that is comfortable to sit on but not to large, so that the rider can sit as stably as possible.

Classic saddles have their size measured in inches, ranging from 14″ to 18.5″, in increments of 0.5″. The “normal” size is 17″ or 17.5″.

These listed saddle sizes should fit the listed waist sizes

  • 16” 14 Years
  • 16.5”   34 waist
  • 17” 36-38 waist
  • 17.5”   38-40 waist
  • 18”      42-44 waist
  • 18.5”   46-48 waist

Other factors also affect which saddle you need and I will cover these in following posts

Horse Advice

Finding the right saddle for you – finding the right accommodation for your seating area.

Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmail

Finding the right saddle for you – finding the right accommodation for your seating area.

The weighty issue of obesity has now got it’s teeth into the equestrian industry and this time we’re not talking porky ponies but the knives are out for the rotund rider.

The average British woman is a size 16 and booties on saddles are becoming bigger, Finding saddles for the plus-sized riders which is equally good for the horse need proper research and a saddler and addle fitter who can appraise your needs honestly.

The size of the saddle is important to the rider’s comfort too. I know from experience that it’s no fun riding in a saddle even as little as half an inch too small. Having to keep scooting back in the saddle to stop from bumping on the pommel or horn, or having to worry about hanging over the cantle are not condusive to good riding!

The larger rider needs to look for a saddle which has specifically been designed with a longer, larger seat without making a longer saddle. Many weight-carrying horses are short-backed. The panel of the saddle will need to measure18” as a minimum to accommodate a larger sitting area. Wow have a Dressage saddle called Bounty but to date this is the only maker who has actually got a saddle to market for the larger seated rider.  Fuller Fillies where to have bought out a 22” saddle but I cannot actually find anymore about that makers actual saddle.  So I am not sure if it actually happened or not.

As with any horse and rider combination, the fit of the tack is essential. With a badly fitting saddle, a horse can get sore even with a lightweight rider. Care should be taken to make sure the tree of the saddle is the correct width for the horse, and that it is stuffed properly, so that pressure points aren’t caused when the rider sits in the saddle. This is true regardless of the weight of the rider, but weight distribution is especially important if the rider is heavy. Some of the newer gel and closed cell foam saddle pads can help with weight distribution, but they won’t make up for a badly fitting saddle.

A study published in the Journal of Veterinary Behaviour, would seem to compound this opinion as they found that a third of recreational riders are overweight (cue another pop at pleasure riders!)  They claim that as a consequence horses are suffering health problems, such as arthritis and lameness, and behavioural problems like bucking and rearing. Although in my opinion, the fact the horse can still get two hooves off the ground, should be taken as a good sign!

The study which analyzed 152 horses and their adult riders from Devon and Cornwall found that just 8 of them, (5%) weighed less than 10% of the weight of the horse, which adheres to recommended veterinary guidelines, 95 riders (62.5%) weighed between 10-15% of the horse’s weight, which they considered ‘satisfactory’ whilst 49 (32%) weighed more than 15% which they claim to be a welfare issue.

From this they concluded that because so many riders are, by their calculations, too heavy for their mounts there should be industry-wide guidelines to protect horses. They also suggest that larger riders need to ride bigger horses.

This plays into an old saying of mine, ‘If you want to look like you have a smaller bottom, get a bigger horse!’ But, joking aside, there are already too many people who are over-horsed because they get themselves a stonking big, athletic warmblood, rather than a gentle giant like a shire X or a heavyweight cob. As a result there is a glut of unhappy riders and unhappy horses. These horses may look gorgeous and shiny, groomed to within an inch of their lives and caccooned in designer rugs but unfortunately they’re hardly ridden because their owners are afraid to. Bigger can be better as long as it’s the right breed.

On the subject of breeds, shouldn’t that have been taken into consideration? Am I wrong in thinking that our stocky native breeds can bear a larger weight proportionate to their size?

And if you are a big rider, who carries your weight well because you’re well balanced, with a strong core and good hands, aren’t you less of a burden to a horse than a wisp of a rider who hasn’t got those attributes?  To my mind, big people can be light riders and vice versa. When it comes to hoofing it, just think back to the wonderful Lisa Reilly on Strictly Come Dancing-she’s a large lass but definitely displayed much more poise on the dance floor than many of her more reed-like competitors.

Also a well ridden, well schooled horse can carry weight better too.  Picture a big person on a horse engaging it’s stomach muscles and lifting it’s back Vs a skinny rider on a horse with it’s head in the air, back dropped, pulling itself along on the forehand-which do you think is the most damaging?

Riding is a sport, so yes I do believe we should be ‘fit to ride’ but that’s about more than dress size. There are big bottomed girls who can do it just as well so let’s keep the issue of rider weight in proportion.

Mounting the horse can be a problem for heavy riders, who may be less agile than their more slender counterparts. I’ve got short, stubby legs and so I need to use a mounting block to get my foot anywhere near the stirrup on my 16.2 hand TB gelding’s saddle. Using a mounting block makes it easier on me and on my horse — the saddle doesn’t get pulled over to the side, possibly damaging his back or withers, my foot doesn’t dig into his side as it does when I try and climb up from the ground. Don’t ever be embarrassed to use a mounting block, no matter what size you are!

 

Horse Advice

Lets Look at Leg Yielding – 9 Top Tips to help you make use of this strengthening exercise.

Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmail

The aim of leg yielding: To demonstrate the suppleness and lateral responsiveness of the Horse.

Leg-yielding is performed in Working trot in FEI Competitions.

What is looks like

The Horse is almost straight, except for a slight flexion at the poll away from the direction in which it moves, so that the rider is just able to see the eyebrow and nostril on the inside. The inside legs pass and cross in front of the outside legs.

Leg-yielding is preparatory work for more complex movements and is a good first step in strengthening the horses back muscles. It should be included in the training of the horse before it is ready for Collected work. Later on, together with the more advanced shoulder-in movement.

It is the best means of making a horse supple, loose and unconstrained for and a will prepare the horse to move with freedom, elasticity and regularity of its paces bringing lightness and ease in its movements.

Leg yielding can be performed “on the diagonal” in which case the Horse should be as nearly as possible parallel to the long sides of the arena, although the forehand should be slightly in advance of the hindquarters. It can also be performed “along the wall” in which case the Horse should be at an angle of about thirty five (35) degrees to the direction in which he is moving.

How to Execute the Leg Yield (tracking right)

  1. Start in Working Trot, sitting
  2. When approaching the long side, half halt
  3. Shift weight to left seat bone
  4. Apply the left leg behind the girth – actively pushing sideways each time the left hind lifts and starts a forward/sideways step
  5. Right rein guides the direction of travel and prevents bulging of the right shoulder
  6. Right leg continues forward movement and prevents rushing away from the left leg
  7. Apply left rein for slight flexion – this is the last aid and is applied lightly
  8. Straighten and ride forward
  9. Please note that the horse is ridden straight between the reins.

Many variations of this exercise can be used to assist in preparation for more advanced lateral movement. If you are unfamiliar with the leg yield aids, you can practice this exercise at the walk to familiarize yourself with the appropriate application and timing of your aids. This exercise can be executed along the rail or on the inside of the arena as well.

Purpose of the Leg Yield

This movement is the precursor to the shoulder-in and half pass seen in the more advanced tests. The horse should remain supple and relaxed during the execution of this movement.

To supple the horse

To assist with initial straightening for other more advanced movements

Each of the above reasons relates to confirmation of or improvement of the horse’s balance. Half halts can be used as needed so long as appropriate releases and praise are used.

It is also a good exercise in warm up executed with the horse in a long low outline particularly where a horse is broken in the neck and tends to over bend and, therefore, is avoiding coming through along his top line.

Common Errors in Execution

  • Horse does not remain straight
  • Horse leads with hind quarters
  • Rider applies too much inside rein & not enough supporting rein
  • Horse is too steep sideways due to not enough forward driving aids.

 

Horse Advice

Looking for sports horses in Ireland?  Lassban Sports Horses

Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmail

Lassban Sport Horses Ireland–The Back Yard — Ballykisteen Estate- Limerick Junction-Co.Tipperary – Birr, Offaly

International Sport Horse Breeding

From start-up in the early 1990’s Lassban Sport Horses continue to breed and produce international sport horses in Eventing, Showjumping and Dressage. From a herd of high performance Broodmares, young horses are selected and produced at home for the international market.

The team at Lassban are well known.

Seamus Merrigan has Showjumped to international level in Ireland and in Europe and Liam Maloney is a Dressage judge and trainer both national and FEI. Their combined knowledge and expereince allows them the freedom to include or exclude young horses from their competition programme.

Eventing

We at Lassban Sport Horses continue to support the Irish horse and it’s worthy place in international competition. Our Event broodmares are retained on the basis of performance, conformation, bloodlines and size.     Lassban Radovix one of our very succesful Event horses is now an Olympic hopefull for 2016. Many others are competing all over the world.

Showjumping

We select our Showjumping mares based on world class performance. An eclectic mix of European and Irish bloodlines resulting in quality Showjumpers of the future.

Dressage

All of out Broodmares are blessed with movement, conformation and size allowing us to have the scope to source international stallions both at home and abroard. The expertise of both Liam and Seamus allows Lassban to apraise the Dressage stock regardless of the breed.

Lassban Clover Roller – ISH High Roller X Charlaw (TB)

169 cm Black all quality stallion by the international Showjumper “High Roller” (G.Sire Cavalier) returned of lease from the Irish Army Equatation School this high performance stallion was destined for an international career to include the Olympics with jump, movement, size and looks, “Rolo” produces foals with all of his attributes.

Lassban Mister Imp – Master Imp X Sky Boy

Sensational young 15/16ths TB stallion by the legendary Master Imp out of Sky Blue Rose by Sky Boy. Jaw dropping movement and jump this stallion was third nationally in the young horse class Royal Dublin Society as a 3 year old.

Horse Advice

How can I stop my horse pulling? …. 3 steps to go!

Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmail

Does your horse get offended when you pull on the reins to stop? Does he pin his ears, shake his head, and keep going? Have you ever asked “how can I stop my horse pulling?”

Maybe he’s trying to tell you something: stop pulling on the reins! 🙂

There is a way to get your horse to stop without pulling on the reins.

but first, you both have to be “in sync” together, working in tandem instead of against each other.

If you haven’t done this before, it may take a few tries to convince your horse that you want to work with him. Horses that are regularly pulled on seem to accept that the pressure has to be there before they should respond. They might learn to lean on the bit, pulling against you while you pull backward, hoping for the legs to stop.

Some horses are generous and eventually slow their feet, stop/starting until finally, all four legs come to a halt. Other horses might not be quite as forgiving and just keep going until you have to put more and more pressure on the mouth. Eventually, one of you wins but it’s never pretty!

We all dream of finding the halt that looks like we are in complete harmony with our horse. You know – the one that feels like the horse’s legs are your legs, and your mind is so coordinated with the horse that it looks like you are reading each other’s thoughts.

It does happen. The secret: ride from your seat.

Setup for a Correct Halt

1. Contact

Prepare several strides ahead of the intended location. Your reins should be a good length – not too long and not too short. There should be a steady enough contact on the bit to be able to communicate very subtle changes of pressure.

2. Begin a series of half-halts.

The half-halts start at the seat. In rhythm with the horse’s movement, resist with your lower back. Be sure to resist in rhythm. In other words, your lower back and seat will feel something like this: resist… flow… resist… flow… resist… flow.

2a. Use your legs.

During each flow moment, squeeze lightly with your calves. This helps the horse engage his hind end deeper underneath the body in preparation with the halt.

2b. Use the hands.

During each resist moment, squeeze the reins with your hands. You might squeeze both reins or just one rein (the outside rein being the usual rein) but in any case, do your best to use the hands after the leg aids. The rein pressure should occur in tandem with the resisting seat aid.

3.When you are ready for the halt, simply stop your seat.

Maintain contact with your legs and reins, but stop the activity. Don’t keep pulling on the reins.

If the horse is truly with you, his legs will stop lightly and in balance.

Horses that have been trained to respond to the half-halt will sigh in relief when you lighten up on your aids and use your seat in the halt. You might be surprised at how easily the legs will stop if you can improve your timing and releases.

Horses that have always been pulled on might not respond at all. They might be expecting to be hauled backward, thrown to the forehand, and dragged to a stop. If this is the case, be patient. If you haven’t done this before, it may take a few tries to convince your horse that you want to work with him.

You might have to bridge the learning gap by applying the half-halts several times, stopping your seat and then pulling to stop. In the end though, the pull should disappear completely from your vocabulary (exception: in an emergency stop).

Regardless of how you get there, the goal is to stop all four legs in a light, balanced manner that allows the horse to use his hind end when he takes that last step. Your horse might walk a few strides and then halt.

If you feel your horse’s front end lighten and into the halt, you know you are on the right track. If you discover the four legs stopped square and parallel to each other, pet and gush over him, and call it a day!

Sound talking : horse listening.

Perhaps you would benefit from some lessons, someone on the ground to help you keep on track.  Horse Scout has a great list of professional trainers, check them out here – they should be able to help you stop your horse from pulling.

Horse Advice

Are you looking for a Professional Groom?

Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmail

Professional Groom with 4 years experience in Bethany Phillips from Braintree, is looking for a live in position. She has a car and holds a valid driving licence. She is available from May 1st 2015.

She lists her areas of expertise as :

  •  Problem horses / re-breaking
  • Competition riding – Unaffiliated
  • Turnout to a high standard
  • Riding, schooling and training
  • Sole charge / Head girl position
  • Sales preparation
  • Work with children
  • Dealing with clients and owners

If you are looking for a competent member of staff then contact Bethany with your requirements.

Horse Scout also has a number of work riders and grooms looking for placements. Click here for further information.

Horse Advice

Top Tips for a well structured Warm Up routine (part three)

Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmail

Have you been reading my blogs on warming up.  By now you are well on the way to having a warmed up horse and now you’re warm, loose and breathing more heavily – At least your horse is!

Your horse is loose and warm and flexible and now you want to engage his brain and for him to engage his muscles. The next stage is to focus on getting every single joint in your horse’s body moving. Pole work is a great way to do this – by getting him to lift his legs up and over the poles, you’re stimulating and asking for movement in all of his joints. Walking over poles on the ground will raise his forehand and also helps to tone his thoracic sling muscles, these are between his front legs and play an important role in supporting his forehand between his front legs. As they contract, they lift and lighten they loosen the underside of the neck. Walking your horse over poles also helps to strengthen his core.

Core stability provides the strength and co-ordination to help with his control, balance, posture and carrying the weight of his rider. It can also improve self-carriage, enhance performance and reduce the risk of injury. The core muscles are vital in maintaining correct posture of his back.

Riding poles and bringing tone into his muscles with half-halts, will help with the engagement of his hind-quarters, encouraging him to collect and push from behind, hill work and riding over poles all help to tone and strengthen his core.

Finally, now your horse’s muscle and joints are warmed up, it’s time to make the transition from that long and low frame to the position you want him in for your working session or test. You need to make sure he’s switched on, in front of your aids, with plenty of activity and ready to work.

If you are having a lesson with your trainer or would like to arrange one with one of Horse Scouts listed trainers please build in time to get to this stage before your lesson starts if you can.  If you have a half hour session with your trainer and your horse is ready to start the hard work at the beginning of a session you can concentrate on working on particular problem areas.  Similarly, ensure that when your lesson is finished you can take the time to cool your horse down for 10 minutes in a low outline to allow him to stretch his muscles and reduce the lactic acid build up before returning to his stable and being sedentary.

In Germany we would often go for a hack down to the lake after a training session and stand in the stream which would cool the horses down too. That was particularly nice but a quiet hack around the school will suffice if you cannot go out.

It is a good thing to note that if your horse starts to fidget or tire during your workout, it’s important to return to a forward and down neck outline to give him a break. It is really important not to skimp on your warm-up! Following a plan similar to the one here will help your horse to perform at his best and lower the risk of injury.

 

 

Horse Advice

Feeling Good?- how to develop that all important eureka factor -“Feel”

Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmail

Feeling Good?- how to develop that all important eureka factor.

Training with ‘Feel’

‘Feel’ is something that cannot be explained easily because each rider’s perception is likely to differ from another’s understanding of that feeling. For that reason, a training approach and exercises that teach riders the ‘feel’ for balance and thoroughness should be part of a trainers routine. When using this ‘feel,’ the rider finds that the movements become less complicated and that the horses are able to stay relaxed even at the highest level of competition.

The thing is though it’s a bit like the chicken and an egg situation….until you can ride with some mastery you cannot really understand “feel” and until you can “feel” you cannot ride with any real mastery! The good thing is that, as you start learning and getting better, you do occasionally have those inspirational moments when you feel “feel”

Eureka moments are easiest, at the start, on simple movements. On a circle for instance. As you concentrate on looking forward, with your shoulders turned slightly in the direction you are going, your inside leg is able to support and push the horse into an outside rein contact and, one you feel the horse is balanced, you can (slowly) release your inside rein towards the horses mouth. In a dressage test this is termed give and take. On a circle when you are training and the horse stays well balanced and does not change its rhythm and continues on the circle….you have a eureka moment! It is one of the most thrilling things ever. Much better than skiing down a mountain (!).

Share your eureka moments and find yourself a trainer in your area. It is so much easier if you have someone on the ground who can help you find that all important “feel”. Horse Scout would love to hear about your first eureka moments.

 

Novice Rider

Fitness First – 6 Key Advantages to Core Strength Training  for Riders

Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmail

What’s the difference between being pushed in a buggy and ballet dancing? – Well, for riders, it is core stability and fitness for athletic performance.

I’ve noticed that most top riders advocate a fitness regime away from your horse both for aerobic fitness but also physical strength.  Physical fitness and core strength are things which, will, ultimately, make a great deal of difference to your ability to ride a horse well.  Being fit helps you balance and hold your own body (rather than asking the horse to ‘carry’ you).

The muscles of the trunk and torso act to stabilize the spine, pelvis and shoulder girdle. From this solid, balanced base the limbs can be moved powerfully and under control. In fact before rapid movements of the extremities can take place, the central nervous system stabilizes the spine in anticipation (1). The rate at which the core muscles stabilize the spine may have a direct effect on the power of limb movement (2).

Core strength training differs from many traditional weight training routines by working both the lower back and abdominals in unison. The same is true for the upper and lower body. All athletic movements incorporate the core in some way. Very few muscle groups are isolated. Instead the whole body works as a unit and core strength training endeavours to replicate this.

What are the benefits of core strength training to the athletic rider?

  1. Greater efficiency of movement
  2. Improved body control and balance
  3. Increased power output from both the core musculature and peripheral muscles such as the shoulders, arms and legs
  4. Reduced risk of injury (the core muscles act as shock absorbers for jumps and rebounds etc.)
  5. Improved balance and stability
  6. Improved athletic performance!

Charlotte Dujardin and Laura Thompson both have a series of videos on UTube talking about their own fitness and the difference it makes to their riding.  For show jumpers, event riders, jockeys and polo players it all sort of makes sense because they are very physical in their requirements but in truth rider fitness is key in training a horse well right from the off. Flat work and hacking and gridwork all require the rider to be balanced and able to aid the horse and direct using their own body in tension.  This does not mean tensely it means carrying their own body in much the same way as a dancer and is particularly well seen in ballet and contemporary dance.  Good dancers are fit…people who move around to the music and then sit down (well I think you can see where I am going with this one!)

There are some simple things you can do on your own like:

Download a 30 day abs challenge onto your phone and at beginner level.  It is amazing how much difference it makes even at this low level.  There are other advantages too….it makes your tummy flatter.  Bonus!

Or you can try following these simple instructions.

Prone Bridge

In a face down position, balance on the tips of your toes and elbows while attempting to maintain a straight line from heels to head. This exercise focuses on both the anterior and posterior muscle groups of the trunk and pelvis.

Lateral Bridge

Start on your side and press up with your right arm. Form a bridge maintaining a straight line from your hand to your foot. Rest on your elbow to increase the difficulty. This exercise focuses on the abdominal obliques and transversus abdominus.

Core s Supine Bridge

Lying on your back, raise your hips so that only your head, shoulders, and feet are touching the floor. The supine bridge focuses on the gluteal muscles. Stronger gluteals help maintain pelvic control.

Pelvic Thrusts

Lie on your back with your legs bent 90 degrees at the hip. Slowly lift your hips off the floor and towards the ceiling. Lower your hips to the floor and repeat for the prescribed number of repetitions.

Perhaps we should start a campaign and get livery yard owners to encourage all their clients to start running or swimming.  …. Or maybe not. It would be a thought though wouldn’t it?

Never overdo exercise when you are not fit.  Start small and work up, just like you do with your horse.  If you are unsure then invest in your self and your horse and join a gym.

It will make all the difference to you when you are training or even just walking your horse up and down to the field.

Perhaps you could set yourself a goal. If I get to the end of 30 days and I have reached this target then I can…..

Have a lesson with …. (take your pick from Horse Scouts Top Trainers!)

Go Cross Country Schooling/have a jumping session at….(Loads of great equestrian centres to choose from on Horse Scout!)

Do you think this is shamless advertising? Well its more because we think that Horse Scout has a great range of trainers and equestrian centres listed and that you should know about them!.

Have a great day.

 

 

Horse Advice

Horse Scouts 6 Top Tips – Warming up from the ground

Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmail

What is a warm-up? The term ‘warm-up’ accurately describes what happens when we transition the body from a resting state to a state suitable for activity: the muscles are literally ‘warmed up’, receive increased blood and oxygen supply, gain flexibility and therefore reduce stress on tendons and ligaments.

 

A warm-up will also ensure increased oxygen supply to the blood and the elevation of the heart rate from a resting rate to an activity rate. If you warm up your horse gradually—instead of ‘jump-starting’ his heart-rate—you will also have a calmer, more relaxed, and more willing horse.

 

Sufficient warm up before exercise, training, and competition is essential, in order to avoid injury to muscles, ligaments, and tendons. Our bodies-rider’s and horse’s-are made up of mostly fluids! Warming up body fuids inside muscles reduces the internal friction of a muscle and therefore prevents injury. Mobility and elasticity of muscles is increased, which minimises the strain on ligaments and tendons.

Avoid muscle spasms, discomfort, stiff gaits and in extreme cases torn muscles or tendons or anxiety and unwillingness to work by warming your horse up properly at the beginning of every ride.

Before you even get your horse out of the stable you can start a warm up routine as part of his preparation to be ridden.

Here are 6 top tips to get that blood flowing; the bonus is that it will help get you warmed up too!

  1. A warm up should always start gently.  Getting the blood to start flowing around the body and warming up the muscles. You can start by grooming your horse, and this has an added benefit of giving you the chance to check for injuries and to ensure that all sweat and mud is removed so that it cannot irritate your horse as he starts work.
  1. Having brushed you horse all over start to concentrate on the back area using a technique similar to a Swedish massage, long light stokes using the warmth of your palm and flicking up and away at the end of the stroke.  Its called “Effleurage” you can see graphics on the internet if you search the word. Basically think of it as ironing out the (metaphorical) wrinkles by moulding your palm around the muscles, as you stoke away you will feel a warmth in your hand and he will be feeling the same warmth in his muscles.
  1. Before mounting him walk him around in circles and ask him to walk forward and backwards too.  This will really help if you have a horse with a cold back.
  2. As these movements will help to warm his back muscles up and increase the
  3. blood flow around his whole body.
  1. Finally, before bitting him up, use carrot stretches to help stretch his topline muscles and engage his core muscles. Make sure he has had time to finish his mouthful before setting off. More on carrot stretches later. As these are also excellent at the end of a ride and your horse will love you for feeding him carrots.

When viewing a horse for sale this crucial step is often left out or rushed because of the time element perhaps the seller is a busy yard owner and has to move on to the next sale or job or where buying privately the seller feels rushed because they don’t want to hold you up.  However this could be an important factor in your final decision and it really is best to allow the horse to fully warm up before you get your first impression of him. Perhaps if you go for a second viewing you could ask to take the horse through a full warm up and that way you could also asses his temperament, stable manners, etc from a relaxed and quiet moment or two together, I am sure that if the seller knows you are a serious purchaser they will allow you to do this.

If you are having a training session or clinic with a professional rider then make sure you build in time to do this initial warm up when you arrive, so there is plenty of time to get ready for the start of your lesson.

Mandy Frost holds Show Jumping Clinics at The Mullacott Centre – Mandy Frost is a BS Accredited UKCC Level 3 Coach and Coach of the Year 2009 and also lead coach for Devon Junior Academy as well as being part of the Excel Coaching Programme. As well as competing Nationally. Cost – group of 3 – £20 per person: two sharing – £30 per person: individual -£60

Lucinda Fredericks  Clinics can be organised outside of eventing season. The cost is £1,000 + VAT plus travel expenses. Clinics can be a mix of flatwork, jumping skills or cross country skills or can concentrate on one discipline and can be a mix of group work and private lessons. If you book a 3 day clinic one night can include a video/Talk/Q&A Session and dinner with Lucinda on one of the nights. Lucinda can offer private lessons to individuals or groups from complete beginners right up to advanced competition riders. Lessons can be undertaken at either at Rosegarth or at external locations for more people by booking a clinic day – Lucinda often travels to local XC courses and equestrian centres to offer tuition to small groups. For lessons on site at Rosegarth please note you will need to bring your own horse with you.  Lucinda has two sessions in in Dorset 18 & 28th February 2015 – Her charges are: Individual lessons – £80 for a 45 minute session: Group lesson with 4 people – £35 each for 1 hour: Group lesson for 6 people – £25 each for 1.5 hours charges subject to VAT